How Do You Dye Nylon Fabric for Lasting Color?

Dyeing nylon can feel uncertain, especially if you fear ruined fabric or washed-out results. I’ve tested this process for years in the lab, and with the right approach, you can transform nylon with rich, stable color.

We will cover nylon’s unique dye affinity, selecting between acid and disperse dyes, a reliable stovetop method, and crucial aftercare to lock in your hue.

Why Nylon Dyeing is Different: It’s All in the Chain

Think of a nylon fiber like a long, synthetic pearl necklace. Each pearl is a molecule in a chain called a polyamide. What makes these chains special are tiny spots called amine groups. These spots are hungry for a chemical handshake.

This structure is oddly similar to a natural protein fiber like wool. Wool also has sites that grab onto dye. This shared trait is why acid dyes, typically used for wool and silk, are the champions for coloring nylon. The dye molecule forms a strong ionic bond with the amine group on the nylon chain.

Now, compare this to other common fibers. Polyester is like a smooth, waxy rope with no charged spots; it needs disperse dyes and high heat to force color into its tight structure. Cotton’s cellulose chains are like trees with hydroxyl groups, perfect for forming bonds with fiber-reactive or direct dyes in a different chemical dance.

The rule never changes: for color to be lasting, the dye must form a chemical bond with the fiber. Nylon’s amine-rich polyamide chains dictate that acid dyes are your best bet for vibrant, wash-fast results. Because this bonding happens best in a warm, acidic environment, your dye bath’ pH and temperature become your most critical tools.

This chemical reality directly affects how you handle heat during dyeing, which ties into nylon’s low shrinkage but high heat-sensitivity.

Nylon Fabric Data Sheet: Know Your Material

Before you heat your dye pot, you need to know what you’re working with. This simple breakdown tells you what to watch for.

Property	Rating / Note	Why It Matters for Dyeing
Breathability	Low	Nylon’s dense structure absorbs dye solution slowly. You must keep the fabric moving in the bath to prevent uneven, splotchy results where dye pools.
Shrinkage Rate	Low, but heat-sensitive	Nylon fibers themselves don’t shrink much, but high heat can permanently distort the weave or knit. A violently boiling dye bath can cause puckering and an altered drape, ruining the garment’s fit.
Heat Tolerance	Medium – softens around 300°F (150°C+), melts higher	Keep your dye bath well below a rolling boil, ideally between 180°F and 200°F (82°C – 93°C). This is the sweet spot where the polymer chains open to accept dye without losing their “spring” and strength.
Stretch Factor	High, but varies by weave	Stretchy nylon knits (like in activewear) can easily distort when wet and hot. Use a large pot, plenty of water, and gentle agitation. Never wring or twist hot dyed fabric-it may not recover its original shape.

I always test a swatch first. Dye a small piece of the exact fabric you plan to use. This shows you the true final color and reveals how the material reacts to your specific dye process before you commit the whole project.

Choosing Your Weapon: Acid Dye vs. Disperse Dye

So, what dye do you use for nylon? The professional answer is an acid dye. Forget the generic “fabric dye” bottle for now. The right chemical match makes all the difference.

Think of your nylon fabric as having tiny positive charges along its polymer chains. Acid dyes are specially formulated negative ions. When you add heat and, crucially, an acid to the dyebath, you create the perfect environment for these opposites to attract and form a strong bond. I use white vinegar or citric acid powder from the canning aisle for this job.

For solid, vibrant, and colorfast results on nylon, a proper acid dye applied with heat and an acidic environment is the only reliable method. The bond is so secure that the color won’t easily bleed or fade with washing. This is the same dye class used for protein fibers like wool and silk, which is why you’ll often see “acid dye for wool and nylon” on the label.

The Power of Acid Dyes

In the lab, we test dye fastness by subjecting swatches to simulated years of washing and light exposure. Acid-dyed nylon consistently outperforms every other home method. You need three things for success:

• A dyebath kept near a simmer (around 160-180°F).
• An acid like vinegar or citric acid to lower the pH.
• Simmering time, usually 30 minutes to an hour, for the dye to exhaust fully.

This process opens the fiber, lets the dye molecules rush in and bond, and then sets the color. The result is a rich, saturated hue that feels part of the fabric itself—much more permanent than typical home dyes.

The Reality of All-Purpose or “Disperse” Dyes

You might see a box labeled “all-purpose fabric dye” that says it works on nylon. These dyes often contain a mix, including disperse dyes. Disperse dyes are designed for polyester; they don’t form ionic bonds. Instead, they work by staining the surface of synthetic fibers at a high heat.

On nylon, a disperse dye will only create a pale, washed-out tint. All-purpose or disperse dyes stain the surface of nylon fibers, resulting in weak, fugitive color that lacks vibrancy and wash-fastness. The color rubs off easily and fades quickly. I only recommend this if you want a very light, weathered “tint” on a nylon item you will hand-wash forever. For a bold, lasting color, it’s not a viable option.

How This Compares to Other Fabrics

This is where fabric science gets specific. You cannot use one dye type for all materials.

• Can you dye polyester? Yes, but you need a pure disperse dye and often a stovetop method with sustained near-boiling heat to get the dye into that stubborn fiber.
• Can you dye acrylic fabric? This requires yet another type: cationic or basic dyes. Acid dyes will do nothing on acrylic.
• What about modal or rayon? These plant-based regenerated fibers need fiber-reactive dyes, like you’d use for cotton.

Each fiber has a specific chemical personality. Trying to force the wrong dye to work leads to disappointment, wasted time, and a murky dyepot. Hand dyeing synthetic fabrics demands its own practical techniques and careful heat management. In the next steps, you’ll see hand-dyeing techniques tailored to polyester, acrylic, and other synthetics, with implicit links to deeper guides.

A Common FAQ: Can You Use Nylon Dye on Cotton?

No. This is a classic mismatch. If you use an acid dye (for nylon) on cotton, you’ll get only the faintest stain that washes right out. Cotton is a cellulose fiber with no positive ionic sites for an acid dye to bond to. It would be like trying to use a magnet on a piece of wood. For cotton, you need those fiber-reactive dyes that form a covalent chemical bond with the cellulose. Always match the dye type to the primary fiber content for success.

When NOT to Dye Nylon (And What to Do Instead)

Knowing when to stop is just as important as knowing how to start. In the lab, we call this a risk assessment. It saves you time, money, and the heartache of a ruined project. Here are the scenarios where you should reconsider your dye plan.

Fabrics with Unknown Coatings or Finishes

This is the most common pitfall. Many technical and outdoor fabrics have permanent coatings for waterproofing, stain resistance, or wrinkle release. These finishes create a barrier. The same principle applies to dye water resistant fabrics. Coatings that block water often limit dye uptake, affecting how colors appear and wear over time. I’ve tested this: when you drop water on a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish, it beads up. Dye molecules behave similarly; they can’t penetrate the surface.

If the fabric repels a droplet of plain water, it will repel dye, leaving you with a splotchy, failed result.

• What to do instead: Test first. Sprinkle water on an inconspicuous area. If it beads and sits on top, dyeing is not feasible. Your only option is to use the fabric as-is for a different project.

Already Dark-Colored Nylon

Dye is not paint. It does not opaque or cover what’s underneath; it adds color molecules to the fiber. You cannot use a scarlet dye to turn a black nylon backpack into a red one. The existing dark dye will dominate the final color, often resulting in a murky, off-tone version of your intended hue.

Dye adds color, it cannot subtract or lighten the existing color.

• What to do instead: You can sometimes overdye a medium or light color to a darker, richer shade (like going from sky blue to navy). For truly dark items, consider using fabric paint or markers designed for textiles, which sit on the surface.

Nylon Blends (Like 50/50 Nylon-Cotton)

Fibers have chemical personalities. Nylon requires acidic conditions and specific dyes (acid or all-purpose dyes). Cotton is best dyed with fiber-reactive dyes under alkaline conditions. If you try to dye a blend with just one type of dye, one fiber will grab the color eagerly while the other ignores it.

A single dye pot for a blend often leads to uneven, heather-like results because the different fibers absorb color at different rates and intensities.

• What to do instead: For blends, you need “union” dyes or a two-step process. Some all-purpose dyes (like those containing direct dyes) work moderately well on both, but colors will be less vibrant on the nylon. For predictable, solid colors on blends, it’s often better to select a fabric that is 100% of one fiber type.

The Wrong Pot for Acid Dyes

This is a safety and results issue. Reactive metals like aluminum, iron, or copper can interact with the acidic dye bath. This can alter the final color (often dulling it) and potentially contaminate your pot with dye that won’t wash out.

Always use stainless steel, enamel-coated, or a dedicated plastic container for dyeing with acid dyes. I keep a specific stainless stockpot just for my dye work.

A Note on Polyester

Since the question arises often: can you dye 100% polyester? The short answer is yes, but not with the methods used for nylon or cotton. Polyester requires disperse dyes and a sustained, high heat near the boiling point of water (around 200°F/93°C) to force the dye into the tightly wound fibers. This is a more specialized process typically done with a boiling wash machine or stove-top method under careful control. It’s a different science altogether from dyeing nylon.

The Pre-Dye Ritual: Testing and Scouring

You wouldn’t bake a cake without checking your ingredients first. Dyeing works the same way. Skipping these two steps is the most common reason for dye jobs to fail. I’ve seen it ruin projects in my studio more times than I can count.

Step 1: The At-Home Fiber Test

Labels lie. A tag might say “100% nylon,” but it could be a blend, or it might have a hidden coating. The burn test is your truth-teller. It’s a simple, classic method we use in labs to get a quick read on fiber content.

Here is how to do it safely. Always work over a metal sink or bowl with water nearby.

1. Cut a small swatch, about the size of a postage stamp, from a hidden seam or hem.
2. Hold it with metal tweezers or tongs over your sink.
3. Use a lighter to carefully ignite a corner of the fabric.
4. Observe how it burns, what it smells like, and what’s left behind.

For pure nylon, you will see it melt as it burns, not flare up like cotton. It will pull away from the flame and form a hard, greyish bead. The smell is sharp and acrid, like celery or hair burning.

Compare this to polyester, which also melts. Polyester forms a sooty black bead and has a distinctly sweet, almost fruity smell. If your fabric burns quickly to a soft ash, it’s likely a natural fiber like cotton or rayon mixed in. Knowing this tells you which dye to buy and what results to expect.

Step 2: The Non-Negotiable Scour

Think of new fabric like a non-stick pan. It’s coated with invisible finishes from the factory-spinning oils, sizing, and anti-wrinkle treatments. These residues repel water and dye. If you dye over them, the color will be blotchy and wash out quickly.

Scouring is just a technical word for a very hot, thorough wash. Its only job is to strip away every bit of that gunk so the nylon fibers are perfectly clean and ready to accept dye evenly.

Use your washing machine or a large pot on the stove.

• Set the temperature to the hottest water the fabric can handle. For most nylon, this is hot tap water (around 130°F/55°C).
• Add a small amount of a simple, dye-free liquid detergent. Avoid heavy detergents with fabric softeners or whiteners.
• Agitate the fabric for 10-15 minutes, then rinse it in warm water until the water runs completely clear.

You will often see slight cloudiness in the wash water-that’s the proof you needed to do this. Your fabric is now a blank canvas.

Should you wash nylon fabrics before dyeing?

Yes, absolutely. I treat this as a law in my workshop. Washing (scouring) is not a suggestion, it’s a requirement for professional, lasting results.

Pre-washing removes the barriers between your dye and the nylon polymer chains, ensuring the color bonds deeply and uniformly across every inch of the material.

After scouring, do not let the fabric dry completely. Dye it while it is still evenly damp. A wet fiber is a receptive fiber. This simple ritual of testing and cleaning separates a frustrating, splotchy mess from a vibrant, colorfast success. It’s the most important ten minutes you will spend on your dye project.

Your Dyeing Toolkit: From Stovetop Pot to Low-Water Techniques

Choosing your method is the first big step. Your goal dictates your tools. A solid black backpack needs a different approach than a subtly mottled scarf. I always match the technique to the final look I want.

The Stovetop Pot Method: For Solid, Deep Colors

This is my lab bench at home. For uniform, intense, and colorfast results on nylon, the stovetop method is the gold standard. It gives you total control over temperature, time, and dye distribution.

You will need a few specific tools:

• A large stainless steel pot you will dedicate to dyeing. Do not use cookware you eat from.
• Long metal or glass tongs for stirring and handling.
• Professional acid dye or all-purpose dye labeled for nylon. Acid dyes, used for wool and silk, bond beautifully to nylon.
• An acid source: white vinegar or citric acid crystals. This changes the pH to help the dye bond.
• A good kitchen thermometer. Precision with heat is non-negotiable.

Here is how it works in practice. After pre-wetting your nylon item, you fill the pot with enough hot water for the fabric to move freely. You add the dissolved dye and your acid source, then the fabric. The magic happens at a steady 185°F (85°C), maintained for 30 to 45 minutes with near-constant gentle stirring. This long, hot, acidic simmer is what opens the nylon fibers and lets the dye molecules lock in permanently. Never let it boil, as this can damage the fabric’s hand and make the dye blotchy.

Low-Water Immersion and Tie-Dye: For Textured Effects

Maybe you want a weathered, tonal, or patterned look. Low-water techniques are perfect for this. Instead of a pot full of dye bath, you use just enough liquid to saturate the fabric in a plastic tub or bucket.

With less water, the dye exhausts unevenly, creating beautiful patches of light and dark, or soft gradations between colors. You can scrunch, twist, or fold the fabric and bind it with rubber bands before adding the dye mixture. The dye will penetrate the folds at different rates, much like dyeing velvet fabric for a textured effect.

You can adapt shibori or tie-dye folds, but remember: nylon does not resist dye like plain cotton does. Where cotton might stay stark white under a tight bind, nylon will often let in a subtle, shaded color. This creates a softer, more diffused pattern, which I often prefer.

When you look at a Dylon fabric dye nylon colour chart or any brand guide, treat it as a starting point. Your final shade depends on your original fabric color, the dye concentration, and the water level in your immersion bath. A chart shows you the potential, not a promise.

The Washing Machine Method: A Compromise

For bulky items like a nylon jacket or curtains, the washing machine is a practical choice. It is a compromise. You trade some control and color intensity for convenience and easier handling of large pieces.

This method only works reliably with a top-loading agitator machine. The constant agitation is needed to move the dye. Front-loaders or high-efficiency machines do not use enough water or agitation.

Many people ask: can I dye nylon with Rit dye? Yes, you can. Rit is an all-purpose dye that works on many fibers, including nylon. For nylon, think of Rit as a “top-up” or tinting dye; it often yields lighter, less saturated colors compared to a dedicated acid dye. To use it in a machine, you must keep the water hot for the full cycle.

Here are my steps for the machine method:

1. Set the machine to the longest, hottest wash cycle (usually “Heavy Duty” or “Whites”).
2. Start the cycle with hot water and let it fill about a third of the way.
3. Pause the machine. Add your thoroughly dissolved dye and 1 to 2 cups of white vinegar.
4. Add your pre-wetted nylon item. Restart the cycle and let it agitate for 5-10 minutes.
5. Pause the machine again. Let the item soak in the hot dye bath for 30 minutes, agitating by hand every few minutes.
6. Restart the cycle and let it complete. Run a full rinse cycle afterward, then wash normally with detergent to clear any loose dye.

The color may be less even than the stovetop method, but for renewing faded gym bags or giving curtains a new life, it gets the job done.

Step-by-Step: How to Dye Nylon with Acid Dyes on the Stove

First, a vital safety note. Always wear a particle mask or respirator when handling powdered dye, and work in a well-ventilated area away from food prep surfaces. I use a dedicated stainless steel pot I never cook with again.

Materials You’ll Need

• 100% nylon fabric (undyed or very light-colored for best results)
• Acid dyes (like Jacquard or Dharma Trading Co.)
• White vinegar or citric acid crystals
• Large stainless steel pot
• Stainless steel tongs or a spoon for stirring
• Kitchen scale (for fabric)
• Measuring cups and spoons
• Thermometer
• Rubber gloves

The Process

1. Prepare your fabric. Wash it in warm water with a little mild detergent to remove any factory finishes, oils, or dirt. Do not use fabric softener. Leave the fabric damp. This helps it accept the dye evenly from the start. These steps lay the groundwork for color consistency. If you run into issues, the next steps will guide you through preparing and troubleshooting fabric dyeing.

2. Fill your pot. Use enough hot water so your fabric can swim freely, about 3 gallons for one pound of material. The water should feel hot to the touch but not boiling. This gives you room to stir without creating a tangled mess.

3. Create your dye bath. In a separate cup, dissolve your measured dye powder in a small amount of very hot water, creating a smooth paste, then stir it into the large pot. Now, add your acid. For every pound of dry nylon fabric, use 1/4 cup of white vinegar. This acidic environment is what opens the nylon’s molecular structure and lets the dye bond permanently.

4. Introduce the fabric. Add your damp nylon to the pot. Slowly raise the heat to a target of 185°F over the next 10 minutes. Stir gently but constantly during this phase. Nylon can take up color quickly, and a slow, even heat rise prevents splotches.

5. Maintain and simmer. Hold the temperature between 180°F and 195°F for 30 to 45 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes to ensure even coverage. You’ll see the water becoming clearer as the dye transfers from the bath into the fiber, a sign it’s working.

6. Cool and rinse. Turn off the heat and let the pot cool naturally until it’s just warm to the touch. This slow cooling helps set the dye. Wearing gloves, remove the fabric and rinse it under progressively cooler water until the water runs completely clear.

Wash your newly dyed nylon separately in cool water for the first few washes to remove any last traces of loose dye. This process gives you rich, colorfast results because the heat and acid form a strong chemical bond between the dye molecule and the nylon polymer chain.

Locking In the Color: Aftercare for Your Dyed Nylon

You’ve done the hard work. The dye is in the fiber. Now, the most critical step begins: rinsing. This process removes any dye that didn’t chemically bond and locks the color in place. A sloppy rinse is the main reason for color bleed later.

The Gradual Rinse: Your Key to Colorfastness

Do not shock your newly dyed fabric with cold water right away. Think of the dye molecules as tiny hitchhikers that have found a seat on the nylon fiber. A sudden temperature change can knock some of them loose.

Start by rinsing the fabric in water that’s roughly the same temperature as your dye bath. I use water that’s warm to the touch, not hot.

Gently squeeze and agitate the fabric, watching the water flow. You’ll see a lot of color coming out at first. This is the excess dye. Keep rinsing and refilling with warm water.

As the water runs clearer, gradually make your rinse water cooler and cooler over several cycles. Finish with a final cold rinse. The goal is water that is completely clear, with no hint of dye color.

pH Neutrality: The Final Balancing Act

Most dyes for nylon, especially acid dyes, require an acidic environment to bond. Leaving your fabric in an acidic state can make the color feel less secure over time. A final pH-neutral rinse helps stabilize everything, especially when dyeing delicate fabrics.

For this, I use a simple kitchen solution. Dissolve about one tablespoon of baking soda in a gallon of cool water. Give your fabric a final 5-minute soak in this bath, then one last plain cold water rinse. This baking soda rinse neutralizes any remaining acid, helping to seal the dye and prepare the fabric for its first wash. Just make sure not to overdo it; too much soaking can actually damage the fabric.

Your Dyed Nylon Care & Handling Protocol

Treat the first few washes with extra care. This protocol will maximize the life of your color.

Washing

• For the first 3-4 washes, use cold water only on a gentle or delicate cycle.
• Use a mild, pH-neutral detergent. Harsh detergents or those with optical brighteners can attack the dye.
• Always add a color-catching sheet to the wash. This little sheet is like insurance, grabbing any stray dye molecules before they can stain other parts of the fabric.
• Wash your dyed nylon separately or with like colors for the first few times.

Drying

• Air-drying flat is the gentlest option and preserves the dye bond best.
• If you must use a dryer, choose the lowest heat or “cool” setting. High heat is a triple threat: it can set any remaining dye stains, weaken the dye-fiber bond, and risk heat-setting wrinkles or even melting the nylon fibers.
• Remove the item from the dryer immediately to prevent creasing.

Ironing

• If ironing is necessary, use the lowest heat setting possible, often marked “Synthetic” or “Nylon.”
• Always use a press cloth between the iron and the fabric.
• High heat will melt the fibers, creating a permanent, shiny glaze on the fabric surface.

FAQ: Can I Dye Nylon Fabric Black at Home?

This is a common question with a tricky answer. Achieving a deep, even, and colorfast true black on nylon with standard home acid dyes is very difficult. The fabric often ends up a dark charcoal or navy. For synthetic fabrics, many fibers respond differently to dyes, making true black elusive. In practice, achieving black on synthetics often requires specific dye types or pretreatments beyond standard home methods.

The issue is dye concentration. Nylon fibers have a saturation point, and most consumer dye packets don’t contain enough pure dye stuff to reach a perfect black. Furthermore, black dyes are often a complex mix of colors, and getting an even uptake is a professional challenge.

For a better result, look for a dye specifically formulated for nylon and labeled “Super Black” or “Jet Black.” You will likely need to use a very high concentration of dye relative to the fabric weight. Even then, expect to do multiple dyeing sessions for depth, and be prepared for some color variation. For mission-critical black items, professional dyeing services have industrial equipment and dyes that are more effective than dyeing fabric black at home.

Troubleshooting Dyed Nylon: Splotches, Fading, and Stiffness

Even with perfect preparation, dyeing nylon can present some challenges. Here’s how to diagnose and address the most common issues.

Problem: Uneven, Splotchy Color

You pull your fabric from the dye bath, and instead of a solid color, you see streaks or cloudy patches. This is frustrating, but I see it often in the lab. The root cause is almost always one of two things.

First, the fabric wasn’t scoured properly. Any residual oil, dirt, or factory-applied finish creates a barrier the dye can’t penetrate evenly. Second, the item wasn’t agitated enough during the initial dye uptake phase, or the dye bath cooled too quickly in one spot.

Fixing splotchy dye is very difficult; an uneven foundation makes a smooth topcoat nearly impossible. Your best recourse is often an over-dye with a darker shade. Choose a dye color significantly darker than your current splotchy one, and ensure you scour the item thoroughly before trying again with constant, gentle agitation.

Problem: Color Bleeds in the Wash

Your newly dyed item leaves color in the wash water or stains lighter clothes. This signals the dye molecules aren’t firmly locked into the nylon fibers.

This usually happens from inadequate rinsing. You must rinse the fabric in progressively cooler water until it runs completely clear. Using the wrong dye type, like an all-purpose dye instead of a more permanent acid dye for nylon, can also cause this.

To salvage a bleeding garment, re-wash it alone using hot water and a dye-trapping product, like a dye catcher sheet or Synthrapol. For the future, always wash hand-dyed nylon separately for its first few washes, and use the correct dye class for the best bond.

Problem: Fabric Feels Stiff or Harsh

After dyeing and drying, the fabric loses its soft hand and feels crunchy. This isn’t usually the dye itself, but what’s left behind with it.

Hard water is a frequent culprit. The minerals (like calcium and magnesium) bind with the dye and deposit on the fibers. A residue of undissolved dye or dye auxiliary chemicals can also cause stiffness.

Soak the stiff fabric in a solution of warm water and a commercial water softener (like Calgon) or a mild white vinegar solution (one cup per gallon of cool water) for an hour. This acidic soak helps dissolve mineral deposits and any loose dye residue, often restoring the fabric’s drape and softness. Follow with a gentle wash and rinse.

Problem: Faded Patches Appear

You notice specific areas, like the shoulders or knees, have lost color faster than the rest of the garment.

This is typically caused by environmental stress, not the dye process. Sun exposure is a powerful bleach. Abrasive wear from backpacks, seatbelts, or frequent rubbing will also mechanically break down dye molecules on the fiber’s surface.

While nylon has excellent colorfastness to washing, its resistance to UV light and abrasion is good but not infallible. You can’t truly “re-dye” a faded patch without affecting the whole garment. For prevention, store dyed nylon out of direct sunlight and be mindful of high-wear areas.

The Limits of Repairing Damaged, Dyed Nylon

It’s vital to be honest about what you can and cannot fix. Some damage is permanent. If the fabric was exposed to chlorine bleach, the dye is destroyed and the nylon fibers themselves may be weakened and yellowed-this cannot be reversed. Severe fading from prolonged sun exposure often weakens the fiber structure irreparably.

You can address surface issues like mineral deposits or mild bleeding, but you cannot restore fibers that have been chemically degraded. Your best tool is always prevention: proper scouring, using the right dyes, and following careful wash routines.

Last Notes on Nylon Dyeing Success

The most reliable path to vibrant, lasting color on nylon is to treat it like the protein-fiber mimic it is. Use an acid dye, maintain a near-simmering temperature, and keep the dye bath moving for the full 30 to 45 minutes to ensure even saturation. This method works with nylon’s chemistry, not against it.

Every dye project is a chance to learn more about how fabrics behave. I encourage you to test swatches first, consider the environmental impact of your dye runoff, and see each finished piece as part of a longer story of use and care. Responsible fabric ownership means building knowledge that lets you repair, refresh, and reinvent the textiles you already have.

Sources and Additional Information

• How to Use Rit DyeMore for Synthetic Fibers – Rit Dye
• r/Fabrics on Reddit: Can Nylon be dyed easily/well?
• How to Dye Nylon: 14 Steps (with Pictures) – wikiHow
• How Do I Dye Nylon Fabric: A Complete Guide to Achieving Vibrant Colors | China Fabric Manufacturer | Fandafabrics